What makes for a romantic perfume? Is it some secret common thread which runs through fragrances making them able to commuovere? Or is it the added subtext we add to them through experience? Every one of us can tell a different tale, but since this is my post let me today recount some of the perfumes which have marked some romantic moments in my life. Come along and share your own in the comments!
The German have a wonderful word, Habseligkeiten, literally the paltry belongings of the almost penniless, but poetically also adjusted to children's prized items. The fascination that simple things, inexpensive things exert upon the impressionable mind of child elevates them to the level of treasures. I was 6, the strange mix of hyper-dynamism in the package of a girly girl, and all the world was a stage. My favorite props were small vials and flacons of scented liquids and pomades. A friend of my mother's had an interesting collection of the latter, all tiled up on the bathroom shelf stacked like alphabetized tins in a 1950s grocery shop. One little roll-on applicator, inviting like a lip gloss (but rather conversely to appearances horribly tasting) hid a small time wonder, Timeless by Avon. Such was my rapture to the contents that the item was deemed suitable to be gifted to my little demanding hands. Timeless is as timeless a scent as its name implies, a friendly yet grown up chypre fragrance, and it was the soundtrack of my elementary school flirting, as smooth and as polished as a woman much senior of me, but somehow it didn't seem too incongruent on a child; it was the discarded experiment (one among many) of an older woman handed down to a kid who obviously prized them and thus rendered them beautiful and rare, rendered them habseligkeiten.
Although Anais Anais was my first "proper" perfume, the one I was gifted with because I actually asked for it, I don't consider it particularly romantic, because it was something of a "me too" moment in time (Knowing me even slightly, you'd surely guess this was a phase of pre-adolecense since the bulk of my teenager years were spent trying to do everything opposite to everyone else and everyone popular, no doubt in a passive-agressive way to mark my own territory and carve out my identity). Rather Opium by YSL, which I got with my pocket money after being impressed with it at the time-frame when only Timeless remnants could be given to me freely without fear of wasting expensive perfume, served as the "me" fingerprint. This made it romantic enough, in a Nietzschean sort of way. It also served as a flirtatious throw of the glove. Indeed it made a statement and was highly complimented.
Other fragrances came and went. Some remained. Molinard by Molinard, long before it became a "niche" novelty was the love letter of a particularly charismatic guy who captured my heart. Sure, it's a floral (with aldehydic, green and fruity accents to boot) and can one be any more romantic than offering a bouquet of flowers, even if they come in the form of essences captured in a fancy bottle like shiny May beetles caught in a glass jar? It also had a lyrically beautiful bottle: Lalique's design of nude nymphs dancing.
Chanel No.19's drydown has been likened to my naked skin (this followed a romp in the hay). That made it extremely romantic… Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue in the elusive parfum de toilette concentration marked a summer spent rummaging through the city centre for book quotes on a paper I was preparing for Byzantine icons for the university. Its Parisian "blue hour" wistfulness became my own lieder of sunlit mornings, naked feet in gladiator sandals and roomy flowing calico skirts in ivory. It's funny but there was nothing Parisian, nor "blue hour" about it, my tiny miniature lasting as long as the completion of the paper, but filling me with memories of an innocent time, a time when everything seemed possible; that has to be romantic, right? (If you don't shy away from this idea, try also Etro's Messe de Minuit in a similarly incongruent context).
I have many other fragrances in my arsenal. Some have erotic overtones, from the nuzzling soft (Narciso Musc for Her oil parfum in the original version) to the soiled clothes & disheveled hair of intense lovemaking (Musc Koublai Khan, L'Air de Rien, Dzing!) via the rubber-and-talc of a pervert vanilla (Bvlgari Black, VIP Room, Hypnotic Poison). Some have intellectual associations which by way of reflection (and lots of wishful thinking on my part) earn a badge of "borrowed romanticism": Guerlain Mitsouko, which was the scent that tied Anais Nin to her Sapphic love. Doblis by Hermes because it embodies the apex of elegance and soft effortless sensuality; I only wish I were such a smooth operator. Eau d'Hermes is how I'd like to present myself to the world; I share that wish with a famous perfumer, I'm told.
Others still just remind me of times spent with loving company enjoying the new things, the new experiences: Serge Lutens's La Myrrhe (my first bell jar when it launched), Grand Amour and Passion by Annick Goutal, Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly and Mon Cuir, Malle's Lys Mediterranee….surely there are more.
Whatever the bond that ties everything together (and whether it truly exists or is a figment of my fevered imagination is a moot point) the implication of a romantic perfume weaves a powerful web which entangles us and influences us long after the remnants on our or our beloved's skin have all but evaporated.
Thursday, February 13, 2014
Wednesday, February 12, 2014
L'Artisan Parfumeur Haute Voltige, Rapelle-toi, Onde Sensuelle: three new fragrances in Explosion d'Emotions
L'Artisan Parfumeur continues to harness the creative powers of perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour who adds to the line Explosion d'Emotions with three new fragrances: Haute Voltige (acrobatics), Rapelle-toi (remember!) and Onde Sensuelle (sensual wave). They form the Collection Detonante (the detonating collection) packaged in bright fuchsia.
The press release describes them in rapturous tones and I quote:
Haute Voltige
capture the exuberance
True excitement. Feel the goose bumps on your skin
as an intense joy takes over. This is an Eau de Parfum with an expansive and extroverted personality: where
a generous floral peony note meets with the unexpected fruitiness of pomegranate.
An explosion of joy.
Rapelle-toi
feel the beauty inside
Silence as a door to our inner thoughts. A contemplative fragrance, anchored in the stillness of our surroundings. With its mesmerising opulence, gardenia evokes this quiet introspection, enlivened with fresh vibrating notes of Sichuan pepper. This magnificent flower is enhanced with musks and smooth sandalwood with honey accents.
A beautiful transcendence.
Onde Sensuelle
the ache of desire
An insatiable, voracious desire is felt like a deep force, surging under the skin. A wave of sensuality washes over you. This Eau de Parfum is a work in contrasts, between a burning spicy bouquet of ginger, saffron and cumin, and the icy crispness of juniper berries and cardamom.
It recreates the sensation, and tension of this urge.
A captivating wave of passion.
The fragrances are presented in Eau de Parfum bottles of 125ml and are set to launch in early May 2014.
Tuesday, February 11, 2014
Love is in the Air: Celebrity Style Tips -Valentine's Day Countdown part 7
"By persistently remaining single, a man converts himself into a permanent public temptation."
Oscar Wilde's famous witticism has been the bane of many a heterosexual woman's existence (and has worked well for George Clooney). The pressure however is on when the "day of the couple" is around the corner for those "uncoupled" ones. As another author, Joan Bauer, wrote: “It was February sixth: eight days until Valentine's Day. I was dateless, as usual, deep in the vice grip of unrequited love. It was bad enough not having a boyfriend for New Year's Eve. Now I had to cope with Valentine datelessness, feeling consummate social pressure from every retailer in America who stuck hearts and cupids in their windows by January second to rub it in.”
But for Valentine's Day (or at least the spirit of the festivity, if not the commercial aspect of it) some of the famous people out there are willing to share what makes them tick, even if it's not necessarily a "public temptation aka the persistently single male".
When asked about her perfect Valentine’s Day, Megan Fox reveals she’s not much for flowers or candy. Instead, the brunette beauty says she melts when her husband gives her sentimental gifts like a handmade card, personalized jewelry or a sexy fragrance that reflects her confident, sensual nature.
(Megan Fox is currently the face of Avon, launching two fragrances for Valentine's Day, Avon Instinct for Her and Avon Instinct for Him).
Kim Kardashian on the other hand is uncharacteristically low profile when sharing her tips for a successful Valentine's Day: “It almost doesn’t matter what you are doing. It’s about whom you are with and the thoughtfulness…even if it’s cooking a favorite meal or going to his or her favorite place!” she recently shared to Gotham magazine.
Of course every famous Hollywood star has had some photo shoot or ad or comedy show which reprises the Valentine's Day theme. I'm merely including a very small selection (courtesy of reelhollywoodselections).
Actually some of those famous valentines are a literary opus in themselves, such as the script for The Misfits which was Arthur Miller's gift to Marilyn Monroe. Others went the traditional way and bought jewels; maybe none went as gaga as Richard Burton did for Liz Taylor, though: the revered thespian bought the historic pearl that once was part of the crown jewels of Philip II of Spain at an auction and offered it to the star famous for her penchant for impressive jewels as a Valentine's Day gift in 1969 (and the infamous "Burton Taylor diamond tale needs no retelling, surely). Liz had even participated in an ad for Valentine's Day chocolates for Whitman's; can you imagine the tongue-in-cheek of seeing that older ad (depicted) and its "he remembered" slogan years later? If you're Liz's date, "remembering" might run you out of serious $$$.
Ol' Blue Eyes (i.e. Frank Sinatra) and Chet Baker maybe said it most romantically nevertheless when they sung that their funny valentine had looks that were laughable and unphotographable. Yet, to them, she was their favorite work of art, and she shouldn't dare change one hair for their sake. What's better than that?
Finally one non celebrity-endorsed trick (via bettyconfidential.com) which I kinda think would be fun is the following: "Throw an Anti-Valentine’s Day party with your single girlfriends: Cook dinner, play Taboo, do a wine tasting, have a dance party, do a Sex and the City or Gossip Girl marathon and enjoy some girl time with your awesome friends." If I were to twist it Perfume Shrine style, I'd say gather them and enjoy a perfume sampling marathon! Now wouldn't that be something!
Oscar Wilde's famous witticism has been the bane of many a heterosexual woman's existence (and has worked well for George Clooney). The pressure however is on when the "day of the couple" is around the corner for those "uncoupled" ones. As another author, Joan Bauer, wrote: “It was February sixth: eight days until Valentine's Day. I was dateless, as usual, deep in the vice grip of unrequited love. It was bad enough not having a boyfriend for New Year's Eve. Now I had to cope with Valentine datelessness, feeling consummate social pressure from every retailer in America who stuck hearts and cupids in their windows by January second to rub it in.”
But for Valentine's Day (or at least the spirit of the festivity, if not the commercial aspect of it) some of the famous people out there are willing to share what makes them tick, even if it's not necessarily a "public temptation aka the persistently single male".
(Megan Fox is currently the face of Avon, launching two fragrances for Valentine's Day, Avon Instinct for Her and Avon Instinct for Him).
Kim Kardashian on the other hand is uncharacteristically low profile when sharing her tips for a successful Valentine's Day: “It almost doesn’t matter what you are doing. It’s about whom you are with and the thoughtfulness…even if it’s cooking a favorite meal or going to his or her favorite place!” she recently shared to Gotham magazine.
Of course every famous Hollywood star has had some photo shoot or ad or comedy show which reprises the Valentine's Day theme. I'm merely including a very small selection (courtesy of reelhollywoodselections).
Actually some of those famous valentines are a literary opus in themselves, such as the script for The Misfits which was Arthur Miller's gift to Marilyn Monroe. Others went the traditional way and bought jewels; maybe none went as gaga as Richard Burton did for Liz Taylor, though: the revered thespian bought the historic pearl that once was part of the crown jewels of Philip II of Spain at an auction and offered it to the star famous for her penchant for impressive jewels as a Valentine's Day gift in 1969 (and the infamous "Burton Taylor diamond tale needs no retelling, surely). Liz had even participated in an ad for Valentine's Day chocolates for Whitman's; can you imagine the tongue-in-cheek of seeing that older ad (depicted) and its "he remembered" slogan years later? If you're Liz's date, "remembering" might run you out of serious $$$.
Ol' Blue Eyes (i.e. Frank Sinatra) and Chet Baker maybe said it most romantically nevertheless when they sung that their funny valentine had looks that were laughable and unphotographable. Yet, to them, she was their favorite work of art, and she shouldn't dare change one hair for their sake. What's better than that?
Finally one non celebrity-endorsed trick (via bettyconfidential.com) which I kinda think would be fun is the following: "Throw an Anti-Valentine’s Day party with your single girlfriends: Cook dinner, play Taboo, do a wine tasting, have a dance party, do a Sex and the City or Gossip Girl marathon and enjoy some girl time with your awesome friends." If I were to twist it Perfume Shrine style, I'd say gather them and enjoy a perfume sampling marathon! Now wouldn't that be something!
Monday, February 10, 2014
Love is in the Air: Most Complimented Perfumes by the Opposite Sex (Valentine's Day Countdown part 6)
Compliments and the perfumes on which one gets them (or doesn't get them) from one's entourage or even from strangers on the street is a loaded topic in the perfume discussing community for all the obvious reasons. On the one hand, getting a compliment on something is always mood-lifting. In what regards fine fragrances it's even more appreciated since it subliminally affirms a person's private aura (since scent is invisible and so personal) and their intellectual prowess (their taste, their cleverness in matching it to their personality etc.). On the other hand another school of thought claims that paying attention to the amount of compliments one's personal choice of perfume exerts somehow diminishes the very value of that stamp of intellectual individuality (and one can see that point clearly).
But to revert to the former argument and in view of Valentine's Day looming, when for at least one day of the year, we (well, not everyone but you know what I mean) hope to flatter another person's interest, which perfumes do get the most compliments? For practical purposes I limited the selection to fragrances getting the attention of the opposite sex. For those in the interim space, feel free to mix & match or experiment.
According to women responding to a similar question on a topic discussed on the international boards of Fragrantica, Makeup Alley, Specktra and BeautyHeaven.au, the consensus brings out these perfumes as getting most compliments from men (in no particular order):
Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf
Narciso for Her (Narciso Rodriguez)
Viva la Jicy (Juicy Couture)
Black by Bulgari
Alien and Alien Liqueur de Parfum and Alien Essence Absolue (Thierry Mugler)
Womanity (Thierry Mugler)
Angel (Thierry Mugler)
Pure Grace and Amazing Grace (Philosophy)
Can Can (Paris Hilton)
Coco (Chanel)
Coromandel (Chanel Les Exclusifs)
Light Blue (D&G)
Be delicious (DKNY)
L de Lolita Lempicka
Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka
Obsession (Calvin Klein)
Infusion d'Iris (Prada)
Shalimar (Guerlain)
White Musk (The Body Shop)
Vanilla Lace (Victoria's Secret)
Moon Sparkle (Escada)
Hypnotic Poison (Dior)
Dolce & Gabbana pour femme (D&G)
Aqua di Gioia (Armani)
Cinema (YSL)
Euphoria (Clavin Klein)
J'Adore L'Eau de cologne florale (Dior)
Chinatown (Bond no.9)
Fancy Nights (Jessica Simpson)
Hidden Fantasy (Britney Spears)
Ultraviolet (Paco Rabanne)
Ambre Narguile (Hermessences, boutique Hermes)
Deep Red (Hugo Boss)
On the flip side, these fragrances get most compliments from women (when worn by men, as attested by Basenotes and Fragrantica male members ~please note these represent a rather fragrance savvy segment of the general population):
Silver Mountain Water (Creed)
Dolce & Gabbana pour homme
Hanae Mori for men
Aqua di Gio (Armani)
Lanvin L'Homme
Habit Rouge (Guerlain)
Polo Blue (Ralph Lauren)
Rochas Man
Michael for men (Kors)
Millesime Imperial (Creed)
A*men (Thierry Mugler)
Comme des Garcons 2 for men
Minotaure (Paloma Picasso)
L'eau d'Issey (Miyake)
Chrome (Azzaro)
Body Kouros (YSL)
Cool Water (Davidoff)
Herrera for men (Carolina Herrera)
Rive Gauche pour homme (YSL)
What will you be wearing for Valentine's Day?
And a reminder: the amazing giveaway for a perfume pen with Swarovski crystals which is also a perfume atomizer courtesy of Tijon Fragrance Lab & Boutique is still running till February 12th on this link.
![]() |
weheartit.com via Pinterest |
According to women responding to a similar question on a topic discussed on the international boards of Fragrantica, Makeup Alley, Specktra and BeautyHeaven.au, the consensus brings out these perfumes as getting most compliments from men (in no particular order):
Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf
Narciso for Her (Narciso Rodriguez)
Viva la Jicy (Juicy Couture)
Black by Bulgari
Alien and Alien Liqueur de Parfum and Alien Essence Absolue (Thierry Mugler)
Womanity (Thierry Mugler)
Angel (Thierry Mugler)
Pure Grace and Amazing Grace (Philosophy)
Can Can (Paris Hilton)
Coco (Chanel)
Coromandel (Chanel Les Exclusifs)
Light Blue (D&G)
Be delicious (DKNY)
L de Lolita Lempicka
Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka
Obsession (Calvin Klein)
Infusion d'Iris (Prada)
Shalimar (Guerlain)
White Musk (The Body Shop)
Vanilla Lace (Victoria's Secret)
Moon Sparkle (Escada)
Hypnotic Poison (Dior)
Dolce & Gabbana pour femme (D&G)
Aqua di Gioia (Armani)
Cinema (YSL)
Euphoria (Clavin Klein)
J'Adore L'Eau de cologne florale (Dior)
Chinatown (Bond no.9)
Fancy Nights (Jessica Simpson)
Hidden Fantasy (Britney Spears)
Ultraviolet (Paco Rabanne)
Ambre Narguile (Hermessences, boutique Hermes)
Deep Red (Hugo Boss)
![]() |
via thescentstore blog |
Silver Mountain Water (Creed)
Dolce & Gabbana pour homme
Hanae Mori for men
Aqua di Gio (Armani)
Lanvin L'Homme
Habit Rouge (Guerlain)
Polo Blue (Ralph Lauren)
Rochas Man
Michael for men (Kors)
Millesime Imperial (Creed)
A*men (Thierry Mugler)
Comme des Garcons 2 for men
Minotaure (Paloma Picasso)
L'eau d'Issey (Miyake)
Chrome (Azzaro)
Body Kouros (YSL)
Cool Water (Davidoff)
Herrera for men (Carolina Herrera)
Rive Gauche pour homme (YSL)
What will you be wearing for Valentine's Day?
And a reminder: the amazing giveaway for a perfume pen with Swarovski crystals which is also a perfume atomizer courtesy of Tijon Fragrance Lab & Boutique is still running till February 12th on this link.
Friday, February 7, 2014
Valentine's Day Special: The Scent of Unrequited or Impossible Love (Valentine's Countdown part 5)
"And the stars, and the cars, and the bars, and the barmen" [1]
"Love never dies a natural death. It dies because we don't know how to replenish its source. It dies of blindness and errors and betrayals. It dies of illness and wounds; it dies of weariness, of wirtherings, of tarnishings."[2]
So often we focus on Valentine's Day as the occasion when one MUST be coupled to participate in the holiday or when one should at the very least have a romantic interest at the ready if they're single. Obviously some are happily married (such as The Non Blonde) or happily single (such as Chemist in a Bottle) with whom I organized a small joint project; they have their own anecdotes to share.
Poor me I reverted this year to that pool of endless discoveries: literature and specifically two cases of unrequited or impossible love.
One of them revolves around the impossibility of the love of the nymphet, of a "Lolita", in Vladimir Nabovok's famous and stylistically memorable novel of the same name. Indeed one can hardly call it a love story, tragic or otherwise. Although possibly everything must have been written around this lyrical tome and its "poetics of betrayal" ~and the issue of pedophilia is arising again in public consciousness due to the recent allegations (re)thrown at Woody Allen's face decades later~ one of the aspects that hasn't been quite explored yet is the insistence of the emigre writer on the scented aspect of Humbert's unrequited, obsessive (and yes, ultimately sickly) love. It is a sort of love, no doubt, because he expresses all the symptoms of eros. His male gaze is held by the thread of fascination: on the one hand of the unknowing pull that the nymphet, Dolores Haze, has upon him,;on the other hand his sophisticated European professorial veneer recognizes that the stuff arousing the little one's admiration is uniformly "trash" ~she lacks the necessary critical distance to judge it. (This includes celebrity and film magazines, shops with knick knack souvenirs, comics etc.)
Humbert's own inherited profession is a perfume company, to which he pays little business attention throughout the novel, but which seems to have an indirect yet potent pull in the machinations of his love patterns. There is a specific reference to the unidentified "musky and powdery" scent of his formative love interest, the child Annabel, when he was of comparable age at the French Riviera, which he traces to her borrowing it from the Spanish maid (a reference that might indicate Maja by Myrurgia or even Habanita by Molinard, promoted with a Latin-sounding name and popular in France). But Humbert also references another unidentified perfume in the memorable poem he dedicates to his lost love towards the close of the novel.
"My Dolly, my folly! Her eyes were vair,
And never closed when I kissed her.
Know an old perfume called Soleil Vert?
Are you from Paris, mister?"
Soleil Vert literally translates as "green sun" and isn't among the many historical fragrances which I am aware of. Supposedly this secret smell, this surreal sun which evokes the variations of light shone upon the two unlikely lovers constantly mentioned in the novel, is the one which has bonded the memory of her to him, a gift from him; one which he chose for her. Much like he chose one for her mother's sake, the landlady he had betrothed a little while before her tragic death in the hopes of keeping at the nymphet's side. But it is still interesting to contrast how mother Haze tricks Humbert into thinking he is going to be picking up perfume for a friend of hers, as an intended gift, when in fact the perfume is then held hostage to be used by the flirtatious woman herself in an equally sorrowful love tension tormenting the love-struck Charlotte in the hopes of catching her tenant's (unrequited) amorous interest.
Another memorable incident of scent marking the impossibility of love shared in literature comes from a part of the life-long diaries of Anais Nin, amassed in the tome titled Henry & June in which she recounts her rising desire for sexual and erotic exploration despite her genuine love for her banker husband, Hugo. Her adventuring desire positively detonates upon meeting the writer Henry Miller (famous for his own unabashed depictions of sexual exploration and erotic experiences in his work) and his beautiful, destitute, but "destructive"wife June Mansfield. The two women indulge in a bit of Sapphic intimacy marking the impossibility of a fully fledged relationship in the context of the mores of the times, or more importantly as the writer continually stresses her feelings of love and friendship for her husband whom she won't quit and June's detached state in life. But it is again perfume, this time in the form of Guerlain's Mitsouko, which creates the tension of memory for the star-crossed lovers.
June asks for Anais to gift her with her perfume as a memento. The perfume is again mentioned as being the thing she notices and keeps as a memory from Anais' house. It's referenced by monetary value too (it's expensive for poor Miller and his wife). It's implied as a mysterious veil that captures the essence of Anais too. In a way, the Guerlain perfume loses some of the respectability and bourgeois factor it enjoys as the scent of choice of a banker's wife and earns through this impossible love, this fated affair, the reputation of a scent that signals a capitulation to some erotic journey of the mind and of the soul.
Anais and another Guerlain perfume, L'Heure Bleue, are wonderfully, poignantly tied in a love poem which I had read a while ago and I hereby quote for you.
"The blue hour perfume hesitates
like a turquoise tear, before falling
cerulean through her hourglass night;
a mauve nocturne of
low saxophone notes
and amaretto sorrows,
echoing footfalls of younger years
departing her dark almond-forest hair;
so as not to awaken from a dream
about to come true, blossoming
within herself; an indigo rose,
unfolding lavender lovers
pressed violet against her lips."
found on Underground voices, Don Pesavento
[1] Vladimir Nabokov
[2] Anais Nin
Don't forget to check out the links for the posts of my friends:
Gaia on The Non Blonde
and Lucas on Chemist in a Bottle.
"Love never dies a natural death. It dies because we don't know how to replenish its source. It dies of blindness and errors and betrayals. It dies of illness and wounds; it dies of weariness, of wirtherings, of tarnishings."[2]
![]() |
via etsy |
Poor me I reverted this year to that pool of endless discoveries: literature and specifically two cases of unrequited or impossible love.
One of them revolves around the impossibility of the love of the nymphet, of a "Lolita", in Vladimir Nabovok's famous and stylistically memorable novel of the same name. Indeed one can hardly call it a love story, tragic or otherwise. Although possibly everything must have been written around this lyrical tome and its "poetics of betrayal" ~and the issue of pedophilia is arising again in public consciousness due to the recent allegations (re)thrown at Woody Allen's face decades later~ one of the aspects that hasn't been quite explored yet is the insistence of the emigre writer on the scented aspect of Humbert's unrequited, obsessive (and yes, ultimately sickly) love. It is a sort of love, no doubt, because he expresses all the symptoms of eros. His male gaze is held by the thread of fascination: on the one hand of the unknowing pull that the nymphet, Dolores Haze, has upon him,;on the other hand his sophisticated European professorial veneer recognizes that the stuff arousing the little one's admiration is uniformly "trash" ~she lacks the necessary critical distance to judge it. (This includes celebrity and film magazines, shops with knick knack souvenirs, comics etc.)
![]() |
via pinterest |
"My Dolly, my folly! Her eyes were vair,
And never closed when I kissed her.
Know an old perfume called Soleil Vert?
Are you from Paris, mister?"
Soleil Vert literally translates as "green sun" and isn't among the many historical fragrances which I am aware of. Supposedly this secret smell, this surreal sun which evokes the variations of light shone upon the two unlikely lovers constantly mentioned in the novel, is the one which has bonded the memory of her to him, a gift from him; one which he chose for her. Much like he chose one for her mother's sake, the landlady he had betrothed a little while before her tragic death in the hopes of keeping at the nymphet's side. But it is still interesting to contrast how mother Haze tricks Humbert into thinking he is going to be picking up perfume for a friend of hers, as an intended gift, when in fact the perfume is then held hostage to be used by the flirtatious woman herself in an equally sorrowful love tension tormenting the love-struck Charlotte in the hopes of catching her tenant's (unrequited) amorous interest.
![]() |
via VioletHour/pinterest |
Another memorable incident of scent marking the impossibility of love shared in literature comes from a part of the life-long diaries of Anais Nin, amassed in the tome titled Henry & June in which she recounts her rising desire for sexual and erotic exploration despite her genuine love for her banker husband, Hugo. Her adventuring desire positively detonates upon meeting the writer Henry Miller (famous for his own unabashed depictions of sexual exploration and erotic experiences in his work) and his beautiful, destitute, but "destructive"wife June Mansfield. The two women indulge in a bit of Sapphic intimacy marking the impossibility of a fully fledged relationship in the context of the mores of the times, or more importantly as the writer continually stresses her feelings of love and friendship for her husband whom she won't quit and June's detached state in life. But it is again perfume, this time in the form of Guerlain's Mitsouko, which creates the tension of memory for the star-crossed lovers.
June asks for Anais to gift her with her perfume as a memento. The perfume is again mentioned as being the thing she notices and keeps as a memory from Anais' house. It's referenced by monetary value too (it's expensive for poor Miller and his wife). It's implied as a mysterious veil that captures the essence of Anais too. In a way, the Guerlain perfume loses some of the respectability and bourgeois factor it enjoys as the scent of choice of a banker's wife and earns through this impossible love, this fated affair, the reputation of a scent that signals a capitulation to some erotic journey of the mind and of the soul.
Anais and another Guerlain perfume, L'Heure Bleue, are wonderfully, poignantly tied in a love poem which I had read a while ago and I hereby quote for you.
"The blue hour perfume hesitates
like a turquoise tear, before falling
cerulean through her hourglass night;
a mauve nocturne of
low saxophone notes
and amaretto sorrows,
echoing footfalls of younger years
departing her dark almond-forest hair;
so as not to awaken from a dream
about to come true, blossoming
within herself; an indigo rose,
unfolding lavender lovers
pressed violet against her lips."
found on Underground voices, Don Pesavento
[1] Vladimir Nabokov
[2] Anais Nin
Don't forget to check out the links for the posts of my friends:
Gaia on The Non Blonde
and Lucas on Chemist in a Bottle.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
This Month's Popular Posts on Perfume Shrine
-
Andy Tauer of Tauer Parfums is having his Advent Calendar again this year for the length of December, countring down till Christmas. For the...
-
First things first: We are honored to participate for the 6th consecutive year in the Advent Calendar of Tauer Perfumes . You know what thi...
-
“She is the embodiment of grace. She flows like water, she glows like fire and has the earthiness of a mortal goddess. She has flowers in h...
-
How many times have you heard that line in one variation or another? Or are you one of the sufferers who feels like you're going to erup...
-
It's that time of the year again. Making lists is fun because it makes one think they're smart and organized. Reading lists is fun t...
-
Le Beau Paradise Garden by Jean Paul Gaultier is "a tribute to the Garden of Gaultier, filled with vibrant flowers and enticing scen...