At the Moment: January 2025

 It's been ages since I submitted an At the Moment column, but I've been meaning to refresh this as a mental exercise in much needed times. So without further ado, some of my recent obsessions. Share yours too (whichever you want) in the comments below!

via pinterest

READING

In the troubled times we're living in there is a precarious balance to keep between being flummoxed by doom scrolling and detaching one's self from the ongoing societal and political process. I try to tread carefully. 

I have revisited some books like Erotica by Anais Nin, always a safe space in times of world crisis, and Serotonin by Michel Houellebecq, its diurnal direct opposite.
In my bucket list for January there are some waiting for me to catch a few uninterrupted hours to finish or to begin, including Sarah Bernand by Françoise Sagan and The Goldfinch by Donna Tartt. 

SCENTING

This past fall I had been wearing (and testing) a roaster of fragrances niche and mainstream, with an emphasis on diversifying and appreciating nuance. 

I chose Ambre Royal by Ormonde Jayne, first. Variations on a theme, like Bach's motif that unfolds from gavotte and sarabande to passacaglia and from there to fugue, are in no other "note" more numerous than in amber. The so-called ambergris or amber. Whatever anyone means (and it doesn't really matter to break it down technically at this point), the traditional recipe of the 19th century characterizes a whole class of perfumes named amber, ambre, ambra... In this case, with Ormonde Jayne's Ambre Royal, we have a solid construction with attractive warm powders and a salty nuance coming from the ocean. 

L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain in Eau de Toilette is another choice. I personally find L'Heure Bleue to be a quiet, soft fragrance, almost shy and dreamy, with a bittersweet air that is not exactly stereotypical in particular (though it certainly does not resemble the sweetness of modern women's perfumes on the shelves) with plenty of powdery fluffy heliotrope. Some scents in this genre are reminiscent of cherry pie or even powdered lilac, but not L'Heure Bleue. 

Dionysian Orgy, the fragrance by The Greek Perfumer, is similarly inviting to a painting by Caravaggio with a youth savoring a goblet of wine amidst a luscious dinner party. The composition is fruity-ambery with spicy accents that have a succulent effect. The ambience of the classic recipe for the mellis accord, which accounts for spicy oriental formulas, is present at the very heart; it evokes the best part of Cinnabar, Opium, and Youth Dew. And last but not least, 

Putain de Palaces by Etat Libre d' Orange. Spare a thought for those who expect a "whore's perfume" to be rich in heavy, oriental notes full of hints and animal scents that refer to instincts. They will be quite surprised. We are dealing with a clear descendant of the Tresor skeleton, the classic, with-a-décolleté accord of rose, fluffy peach, and synthetic notes of violets and clean musk - which is perfectly in line with the choice of this particular perfume as the scent of strippers in posh clubs of other decades. Something strong, something clean, something ladylike, so as to not rouse suspicions in the minds of the clients' wives upon their return home. The fragrance is a bit powdery in the general sense of cosmetic products (lipstick, face make-up)  

For the holidays 2024-2025 I drenched myself with the spectacularly chic Splendida Iris d' Or by Bvlgari, a precious gift from a friend. It is the recalibration of their criminally discontinued Bvlgari pour Femme and feels like the softest pashmina shawl on the shoulders and decolletage. 

I will devote a separate post on my newer scented discoveries to usher forth 2025, but feel free to add yours.

Brooke Shields via pinterest

STYLING

I pledge conscious fashion choices for my 2025 bucket list. Not sure it will always be a choice that can be materialised, since it requires more time and distance spent than I'm usually willing to devote, but we have globally arrived at a time when every little thing matters. I intend to recycle some of my older clothes into newer schemes and styling and update with great quality accessories as always. Heirlooms, silk scarves, and actual leather handbags that have withstood the floods of time need not be crushed at the back of the closet. 

LISTENING

I discovered La Chapelle Musique during the holidays thanks to their Noel recordings and was charmed. Here they are for your inspection (and they have lots of material on their channel). 

BEAUTIFYING

via pinterest Behance rough beauties

 

I have increasingly been using just liquid black liner on my lash line, plus a touch of mascara on my upper lashes, and substituted posh brands for high-street alternatives for the products to do the job. My current duo is Calligraph Pro Matt Liner Waterproof by Catrice and The False Lashes Mascara by Essence. They perform great, staying put until I take them off myself and apart from not budging they also not sting in the eyes. 

On the contrary I have been using posh lipsticks on my lips and intend to continue doing so this year. The Tom Ford lipsticks may suffer from a somewhat vulgarised aesthetic, as is customary to the sex sells adage supporting some brands, but the quality is unquestionable. They melt like butter on the lips when applying, stay nicely put for the most part, and when fading leave a nice stain, plus they come in a wide array of colours which please my artistic eye and warm the cockles of my little heart. The shade 04 Aphrodite with the alluring name is a favourite, in the Lip Color Sheer collection. It's a nice mid-plum, mid-rose shade that contrary to what's advertised doesn't let the natural hue of the lips shine through (and therefore reads warmer than my own set) and leaves a satiny finish. Perfect for everyday as well as dressier occasions, exactly because two glides provide much pigment. The odd thing is it's 55$ in the USA according to Temptalia and 61 euros in the local retail market, more expensive than any other brand, which makes me wonder how physical stores intend to stay open in the long term! But I digress... 

I'm also currently in search of a great blurring primer that can be worn alone over sunscreen in the cooler months and in the warmer springtime ahead. I like soft and satiny things rather than all glam gloss glass skin. Any suggestions? Thanks for your input. 

May 2025 bring many more pleasurable things on!

Eau de Lancaster: fragrance review (1997 edition)

art by Antonio Mora via pinterest

Contrary to colognes that take their time to establish the synthetically enhanced citrus notes before sinking into an indelible loop of scrubbed musk, the depths of Eau de Lancaster seem to appear almost immediately under the effervescent affluence of soapy hesperides (no doubt thanks to aldehyde attributed to coriander in the pyramid). Like a lining that's beginning to show at the point of overstretched seams, it hints at what's beneath. 

 The third edition by Lancaster chronologically, which is circulating nowadays in online retailers, circles back and revisited Eau de Lancaster for men from 1977, with the same name and a much more architectural design for the bottle: subtly fluted, curvaceous, beautifully simple and diaphanous, highlighting the light green shade of its juice (the photo below is leaning a bit more blue-ish than green as is in reality). This Eau de Lancaster relaunched in 1997 with yet another different set of notes, but it's really a revisiting of the original theme: a starched white shirt of a scent. 

 The latest edition of the 1997 bottle also circulates as Lancaster Grace in eau de toilette concentration, 125ml / 4.2 fl.oz.size, and this time aimed at women only (though not quite, it's all about the name, really). Definitely an allusion to the princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, the patron saint of Lancaster, but also not so amiss as a reference to the glorious, magnificent scent of the fragrance itself. A lovely, fresh, silky olfactory landscape that is clean and natural referencing, creating an aura of gentility and class. The truly rich do not draw attention via their fragrance of choice; they let it speak in murmurs. 

Those who like fragrances like Eau de Cartier, Pomelatto Artemisia 67, Eau de Rochas, Clarins Eau Dynamissante and the like, should try this out. 

 Notes by Fragrantica: Bergamot, coriander, basil, lavender, mandarin, palisander rosewood, lily, floral notes, jasmine, peach, oakmoss, amber, vanilla.

Happy 2025!

It seems amazing and astounding that I have been keeping this blog online for two decades now. WOW! There have been many milestones, many formative journeys, literal and figurative, for me through this path, but it enriched my life in ways unimaginable and yours too I hope. I take this chance to wish you all a merry merry New Year full of joy, love and prosperity.

Laura Biagotti Laura: fragrance review

Laura Biagiotti's iconic Laura, with its aqueous character, has been so characteristic of its era that 30 years later it still springs forth in our minds as a 1990s staple, alongside L’Eau d’Issey (1992), L’Eau Par Kenzo (1996), Aqua di Gio (1996), Escape For Men (1993),and Eden by Cacharel (Indeed, I recently wrote a dedicated fragrance review & homage to Cacharel's Eden).

Perfumer Anne Flipo's composition from 1994 for Laura became an essential accessory for women, enveloping her like a gentle scarf without overwhelming her personality. Operative words: not overwhelming. You have to see a woman's eyes before you smell her perfume, so went the old piece of advice on fragrance-wearing etiquette. The so-called olfactory bouquet in Laura is delicate and fruity above all, with a gentle hug and a kiss on the cheek provided by the synergy of the 1990s trademark Calone note, giving it melon-like tonalities and peachy lactones coupled with fruit accords like litchi. The inclusion of litchi fruit (or lychee, as it's also spelled) was novel at the time. The scent profile of litchi is close to that of a very juicy grape, with a mild flavor that is aqueous, delicately rosy, and temperately sweet. The likening with some Gewürztraminer variety wines comes as no surprise: the lychee-rosy aroma is common thanks to the magic of the cis-rose oxide, a common thread in all three subjects—flowers, fruit, and wine. Ethereal, doe-eyed, and tender are also words that come to mind when I think of Laura by Laura Biagiotti. It's aqueous and watery, to be sure, and the effect of Calone contributes to that. But it's a calm lake rather than a vast, tempestuous sea.

Versace Crystal Noir: fragrance review of enduring best-seller

Lately I have been noticing a strange phenomenon which brought about this examination. Versace's post-millennium child, Crystal Noir from 2004, has been the über perennial for each and every occasion on the Fragrantica members' collections! The members come from far and between, dressed in many guises among eclectic collections, but the bottom-line is always the same: Crystal Noir comes across as the perfect passe-partout fragrance for a very wide audience. Fit for day, sexy by night. This is why it has endured for 20 years to the day.

I am not such an ardent fan of it, but I do get the crowd-pleasing aspect of it very well. It's very easy to wear and mingles with the skin. The presentation with the lid that seems like it takes Herculean capacity to lift helps, too. Capitalizing on the mysterious allure of both purple and black and revisiting the Tom Ford ads element of women reclining with men over them, it catches the eye in a somewhat tacky way. The marrying of a floral note hidden inside a soft, mellow cocoon creates this impression of being immersed in clotted cream. Cream brings on thoughts of gluttony, indulgence, pampering and also whiteness. White also brings to mind gardenias (supposedly in the heart of Crystal Noir's floral chord, though I don't really discern it as such) and shredded coconut whites, all delicious and tropical. White and tropical don't really mix together, mentally, but in this case they do and — lo and behold! — it makes for the converging of territories. We can feel clearly the white floral hint creamed in coconut and deliciously comfy materials of milky woods, fluffy clean musks and a mental interjection of a hot white towel impression. It's worthy of a spa, yet oddly sexy and beckoning-come-hither, too. No wonder it's the fragrance for day and night, for business or pleasure, for just abut any woman. If she's shy she can comfort herself that it's her armour. If she's bold, she can cajole her fancier moods by saying to herself she's always the lady (and she is).