Wednesday, February 12, 2014

L'Artisan Parfumeur Haute Voltige, Rapelle-toi, Onde Sensuelle: three new fragrances in Explosion d'Emotions

L'Artisan Parfumeur continues to harness the creative powers of perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour who adds to the line Explosion d'Emotions with three new fragrances: Haute Voltige (acrobatics), Rapelle-toi (remember!) and Onde Sensuelle (sensual wave). They form the Collection Detonante (the detonating collection) packaged in bright fuchsia.




The press release describes them in rapturous tones and I quote:

Haute Voltige
capture the exuberance
True excitement. Feel the goose bumps on your skin
as an intense joy takes over. This is an Eau de Parfum with an expansive and extroverted personality: where
a generous floral peony note meets with the unexpected fruitiness of pomegranate.
An explosion of joy.

Rapelle-toi
feel the beauty inside
Silence as a door to our inner thoughts. A contemplative fragrance, anchored in the stillness of our surroundings. With its mesmerising opulence, gardenia evokes this quiet introspection, enlivened with fresh vibrating notes of Sichuan pepper. This magnificent flower is enhanced with musks and smooth sandalwood with honey accents.
A beautiful transcendence.

Onde Sensuelle
the ache of desire
An insatiable, voracious desire is felt like a deep force, surging under the skin. A wave of sensuality washes over you. This Eau de Parfum is a work in contrasts, between a burning spicy bouquet of ginger, saffron and cumin, and the icy crispness of juniper berries and cardamom.
It recreates the sensation, and tension of this urge.
A captivating wave of passion.

The fragrances are presented in Eau de Parfum bottles of 125ml and are set to launch in early May 2014. 

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Love is in the Air: Celebrity Style Tips -Valentine's Day Countdown part 7

"By persistently remaining single, a man converts himself into a permanent public temptation."

Oscar Wilde's famous witticism has been the bane of many a heterosexual woman's existence (and has worked well for George Clooney). The pressure however is on when the "day of the couple" is around the corner for those "uncoupled" ones. As another author, Joan Bauer, wrote: “It was February sixth: eight days until Valentine's Day. I was dateless, as usual, deep in the vice grip of unrequited love. It was bad enough not having a boyfriend for New Year's Eve. Now I had to cope with Valentine datelessness, feeling consummate social pressure from every retailer in America who stuck hearts and cupids in their windows by January second to rub it in.”


But for Valentine's Day (or at least the spirit of the festivity, if not the commercial aspect of it) some of the famous people out there are willing to share what makes them tick, even if it's not necessarily a "public temptation aka the persistently single male".

When asked about her perfect Valentine’s Day, Megan Fox reveals she’s not much for flowers or candy. Instead, the brunette beauty says she melts when her husband gives her sentimental gifts like a handmade card, personalized jewelry or a sexy fragrance that reflects her confident, sensual nature.
(Megan Fox is currently the face of Avon, launching two fragrances for Valentine's Day, Avon Instinct for Her and Avon Instinct for Him).

Kim Kardashian on the other hand is uncharacteristically low profile when sharing her tips for a successful Valentine's Day: “It almost doesn’t matter what you are doing. It’s about whom you are with and the thoughtfulness…even if it’s cooking a favorite meal or going to his or her favorite place!” she recently shared to Gotham magazine.

Of course every famous Hollywood star has had some photo shoot or ad or comedy show which reprises the Valentine's Day theme. I'm merely including a very small selection (courtesy of reelhollywoodselections).
Actually some of those famous valentines are a literary opus in themselves, such as the script for The Misfits which was Arthur Miller's gift to Marilyn Monroe. Others went the traditional way and bought jewels; maybe none went as gaga as Richard Burton did for Liz Taylor, though: the revered thespian bought the historic pearl that once was part of the crown jewels of Philip II of Spain at an auction and offered it to the star famous for her penchant for impressive jewels as a Valentine's Day gift in 1969 (and the infamous "Burton Taylor diamond tale needs no retelling, surely). Liz had even participated in an ad for Valentine's Day chocolates for Whitman's; can you imagine the tongue-in-cheek of seeing that older ad (depicted) and its "he remembered" slogan years later? If you're Liz's date, "remembering" might run you out of serious $$$.


Ol' Blue Eyes (i.e. Frank Sinatra) and Chet Baker maybe said it most romantically nevertheless when they sung that their funny valentine had looks that were laughable and unphotographable. Yet, to them, she was their favorite work of art, and she shouldn't dare change one hair for their sake. What's better than that?

Finally one non celebrity-endorsed trick (via bettyconfidential.com) which I kinda think would be fun is the following: "Throw an Anti-Valentine’s Day party with your single girlfriends: Cook dinner, play Taboo, do a wine tasting, have a dance party, do a Sex and the City or Gossip Girl marathon and enjoy some girl time with your awesome friends." If I were to twist it Perfume Shrine style, I'd say gather them and enjoy a perfume sampling marathon! Now wouldn't that be something!

Monday, February 10, 2014

Love is in the Air: Most Complimented Perfumes by the Opposite Sex (Valentine's Day Countdown part 6)

Compliments and the perfumes on which one gets them (or doesn't get them) from one's entourage or even from strangers on the street is a loaded topic in the perfume discussing community for all the obvious reasons. On the one hand, getting a compliment on something is always mood-lifting. In what regards fine fragrances it's even more appreciated since it subliminally affirms a person's private aura (since scent is invisible and so personal) and their intellectual prowess (their taste, their cleverness in matching it to their personality etc.). On the other hand another school of thought claims that paying attention to the amount of compliments one's personal choice of perfume exerts somehow diminishes the very value of that stamp of intellectual individuality (and one can see that point clearly).

weheartit.com via Pinterest
But to revert to the former argument and in view of Valentine's Day looming, when for at least one day of the year, we (well, not everyone but you know what I mean) hope to flatter another person's interest, which perfumes do get the most compliments? For practical purposes I limited the selection to fragrances getting the attention of the opposite sex. For those in the interim space, feel free to mix & match or experiment.

According to women responding to a similar question on a topic discussed on the international boards of Fragrantica, Makeup Alley, Specktra and BeautyHeaven.au, the consensus brings out these perfumes as getting most compliments from men (in no particular order):

Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf
Narciso for Her (Narciso Rodriguez)
Viva la Jicy (Juicy Couture)
Black by Bulgari
Alien and Alien Liqueur de Parfum and Alien Essence Absolue (Thierry Mugler)
Womanity (Thierry Mugler)
Angel (Thierry Mugler)
Pure Grace and Amazing Grace (Philosophy)
Can Can (Paris Hilton)
Coco (Chanel)
Coromandel (Chanel Les Exclusifs)
Light Blue (D&G)
Be delicious (DKNY)
L de Lolita Lempicka
Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka
Obsession (Calvin Klein)
Infusion d'Iris (Prada)
Shalimar (Guerlain)
White Musk (The Body Shop)
Vanilla Lace (Victoria's Secret)
Moon Sparkle (Escada)
Hypnotic Poison (Dior)
Dolce & Gabbana pour femme (D&G)
Aqua di Gioia (Armani)
Cinema (YSL)
Euphoria (Clavin Klein)
J'Adore L'Eau de cologne florale (Dior)
Chinatown (Bond no.9)
Fancy Nights (Jessica Simpson)
Hidden Fantasy (Britney Spears)
Ultraviolet (Paco Rabanne)
Ambre Narguile (Hermessences, boutique Hermes)
Deep Red (Hugo Boss)

via thescentstore blog
On the flip side, these fragrances get most compliments from women (when worn by men, as attested by Basenotes and Fragrantica male members ~please note these represent a rather fragrance savvy segment of the general population):

Silver Mountain Water (Creed)
Dolce & Gabbana pour homme
Hanae Mori for men
Aqua di Gio (Armani)
Lanvin L'Homme
Habit Rouge (Guerlain)
Polo Blue (Ralph Lauren)
Rochas Man
Michael for men (Kors)
Millesime Imperial (Creed)
A*men (Thierry Mugler)
Comme des Garcons 2 for men
Minotaure (Paloma Picasso)
L'eau d'Issey (Miyake)
Chrome (Azzaro)
Body Kouros (YSL)
Cool Water (Davidoff)
Herrera for men (Carolina Herrera)
Rive Gauche pour homme (YSL)

What will you be wearing for Valentine's Day?

And a reminder: the amazing giveaway for a perfume pen with Swarovski crystals which is also a perfume atomizer courtesy of Tijon Fragrance Lab & Boutique is still running till February 12th on this link.



Friday, February 7, 2014

Valentine's Day Special: The Scent of Unrequited or Impossible Love (Valentine's Countdown part 5)

"And the stars, and the cars, and the bars, and the barmen" [1]

"Love never dies a natural death. It dies because we don't know how to replenish its source. It dies of blindness and errors and betrayals. It dies of illness and wounds; it dies of weariness, of wirtherings, of tarnishings."[2]

via etsy
So often we focus on Valentine's Day as the occasion when one MUST be coupled to participate in the holiday or when one should at the very least have a romantic interest at the ready if they're single. Obviously some are happily married (such as The Non Blonde) or happily single (such as Chemist in a Bottle) with whom I organized a small joint project; they have their own anecdotes to share.
Poor me I reverted this year to that pool of endless discoveries: literature and specifically two cases of unrequited or impossible love.

One of them revolves around the impossibility of the love of the nymphet, of a "Lolita", in Vladimir Nabovok's famous and stylistically memorable novel of the same name. Indeed one can hardly call it a love story, tragic or otherwise. Although possibly everything must have been written around this lyrical tome and its "poetics of betrayal" ~and the issue of pedophilia is arising again in public consciousness due to the recent allegations (re)thrown at Woody Allen's face decades later~ one of the aspects that hasn't been quite explored yet is the insistence of the emigre writer on the scented aspect of Humbert's unrequited, obsessive (and yes, ultimately sickly) love. It is a sort of love, no doubt, because he expresses all the symptoms of eros. His male gaze is held by the thread of fascination: on the one hand of the unknowing pull that the nymphet, Dolores Haze, has upon him,;on the other hand his sophisticated European professorial veneer recognizes that the stuff arousing the little one's admiration is uniformly "trash" ~she lacks the necessary critical distance to judge it. (This includes celebrity and film magazines,  shops with knick knack souvenirs, comics etc.)

via pinterest
Humbert's own inherited profession is a perfume company, to which he pays little business attention throughout the novel, but which seems to have an indirect yet potent pull in the machinations of his love patterns. There is a specific reference to the unidentified "musky and powdery" scent of his formative love interest, the child Annabel, when he was of comparable age at the French Riviera, which he traces to her borrowing it from the Spanish maid (a reference that might indicate Maja by Myrurgia or even Habanita by Molinard, promoted with a Latin-sounding name and popular in France). But Humbert also references another unidentified perfume in the memorable poem he dedicates to his lost love towards the close of the novel.

"My Dolly, my folly! Her eyes were vair,
And never closed when I kissed her.
Know an old perfume called Soleil Vert?
Are you from Paris, mister?"

Soleil Vert literally translates as "green sun" and isn't among the many historical fragrances which I am aware of. Supposedly this secret smell, this surreal sun which evokes the variations of light shone upon the two unlikely lovers constantly mentioned in the novel, is the one which has bonded the memory of her to him, a gift from him; one which he chose for her. Much like he chose one for her mother's sake, the landlady he had betrothed a little while before her tragic death in the hopes of keeping at the nymphet's side. But it is still interesting to contrast how mother Haze tricks Humbert into thinking he is going to be picking up perfume for a friend of hers, as an intended gift, when in fact the perfume is then held hostage to be used by the flirtatious woman herself in an equally sorrowful love tension tormenting the love-struck Charlotte in the hopes of catching her tenant's (unrequited) amorous interest.

via VioletHour/pinterest

Another memorable incident of scent marking the impossibility of love shared in literature comes from a part of the life-long diaries of Anais Nin, amassed in the tome titled Henry & June in which she recounts her rising desire for sexual and erotic exploration despite her genuine love for her banker husband, Hugo. Her adventuring desire positively detonates upon meeting the writer Henry Miller (famous for his own unabashed depictions of sexual exploration and erotic experiences in his work) and his beautiful, destitute, but "destructive"wife June Mansfield. The two women indulge in a bit of Sapphic intimacy marking the impossibility of a fully fledged relationship in the context of the mores of the times, or more importantly as the writer continually stresses her feelings of love and friendship for her husband whom she won't quit and June's detached state in life. But it is again perfume, this time in the form of Guerlain's Mitsouko, which creates the tension of memory for the star-crossed lovers.

June asks for Anais to gift her with her perfume as a memento. The perfume is again mentioned as being the thing she notices and keeps as a memory from Anais' house. It's referenced by monetary value too (it's expensive for poor Miller and his wife). It's implied as a mysterious veil that captures the essence of Anais too. In a way, the Guerlain perfume loses some of the respectability and bourgeois factor it enjoys as the scent of choice of a banker's wife and earns through this impossible love, this fated affair, the reputation of a scent that signals a capitulation to some erotic journey of the mind and of the soul.

Anais and another Guerlain perfume, L'Heure Bleue, are wonderfully, poignantly tied in a love poem which I had read a while ago and I hereby quote for you.

"The blue hour perfume hesitates
like a turquoise tear, before falling
cerulean through her hourglass night;
a mauve nocturne of
low saxophone notes
and amaretto sorrows,
echoing footfalls of younger years
departing her dark almond-forest hair;
so as not to awaken from a dream
about to come true, blossoming
within herself; an indigo rose,
unfolding lavender lovers
pressed violet against her lips."


found on Underground voices, Don Pesavento

[1] Vladimir Nabokov
[2] Anais Nin

Don't forget to check out the links for the posts of my friends:

Gaia on The Non Blonde
and Lucas on Chemist in a Bottle.

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Love is in the Air: Regency Perfume Rings ~Valentine's Day Countdown part 4

Perfumes serve many admirable purposes, but their reputation for catching (and holding) a love interest's attention has forever been the most popular one, for better or for worse. I elaborated previously on the Victorian perfume buttons and today I'm going to present you with more historical curios. In the meantime contemporary makers of scent objects haven't been idle either and in fact we have a delightful giveaway for real Swarowski pens which serve also as atomizers for perfume (so you can spray perfume with your pen!), so if you missed that post check it out and enter a comment for a chance to win one for yourself!
And now, on to the world of Jane Austen and those Regency styled images…

via 

During the Georgian era the popularization of Eau de Cologne meant no more oily residue for perfumes, so the process of wearing scented accessories was rather easy compared to the thick unguents of prior times. The 19th century gentleman specifically was catered by the likes of Juan Famenias Floris and his lightweight and elegant scented toiletries (Floris notoriously provided the emblematic Regency dandy, Beau Brummel), a tradition that would make novelist Jane Austen have her heroine Emma judge Frank Churchill's desire to travel "sixteen miles twice over" to just  have his hair cut and groomed in London as "foppery and nonsense".
What is less know is that in Regency times the tradition of perfumed rings came into being, no doubt a distant cousin of the poison rings that pervaded the European courts during the 15th and 16th century (and which allowed for the swift disposal of enemies by the careful administering of various poisons ~always at the reach of a hand!~ into the drinks and food of those partaking in a feast). But perfume rings were decidedly benevolent.

It would be no exaggeration to claim that perfume rings at the time are solely handled by the ladies. For the gentlemen the rings of the Elizabethan portraits, which almost click and clank due to their sheer profusion, are a thing of the past; the signet ring (a single ring which serves essentially as a beautifully mounted seal, distinctive enough for signing one's correspondence, as well as an anti-counterfeit measure) rules the day. Women on the other hand had the benefit of using the ring in more cunning ways. As the tradition of gentlemen bowing to lightly kiss the ladies' hands was rampant, the design of the perfume ring allowed for liquid and fragrant pomade to seep through tiny cuts and holes into the material, therefore aromatizing not only the lady in question, but also the giver of the kiss on the hand.

For lovers the motif of the heart reigned even back then, dating back to the fide rings of the Middle Ages (fide from Latin for faith). Its natural progression was the Claddagh ring, which has the heart surmounted by a crown held by a pair of hands, and which by the way that is worn denotes whether the person wearing it is single or bespoken. The rings took on other popular early 19th century love themes: Cupid and Psyche (a tale taken from Greek mythology); turtle-doves, usually in pairs, sacred to the goddess Venus; clinging evergreen ivy, forget-me-nots or pansies (oddly enough a non fragrant flower but very popular during the 19th century); or the bezel-set rings with a clock dial whereupon the gem is mounted on the number 12 and the inscription temps nous joindra (time will bring us together again) in the hoop, popular for lovers kept apart for any length of time.
Obviously the rings did not contain all those symbols and uses together!

The use of perfume lockets/padlocks, where curls of silky hair were included for safekeeping between lovers, was also in use, but the repercussions were less flirty than the ring, which by the sheer movement of the hand meant a detonation of its perfumed message….


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