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Although iris scents are often mentioned in regards to powdery and starchy shades in perfumery, which would recall paper, skin, and bulbous vegetables, with Bois d'Iris The Different Company (not to be confused with Van Cleef & Arpel’s subsequent release under its Collection Extraordinaire line Bois d'Iris) we come upon an epiphany.
It's more of a manifestation of woods within iris than actual iris. This provides the necessary piquancy to bring out a certain oddness to the aura of the scent, which makes one wonder where scent ends and skin begins, or vice versa.
Iris concrete lacks the diffusional standards for modern perfumery, so perfumer Ellena bolstered the material with alpha-iso-methyl ionone, to add a diffusive violet chord alongside the chalkier analog of the iris.
The duet of iris and alpha-iso-methyl ionone also structures Hermès Hiris, but while Olivia Giacobetti’s formula uses carrot seeds and almond wood, Bois d’Iris veers into cedarwood to render a sublime una corda pedal of a scent.
I have owned The Different Company's Bois D'Iris since it came out. I still have a bottle of it even though it was supposedly discontinued despite the fact that several of their other perfumes are still in existence and easy to purchase. It seems that the best perfumes are the ones that get discontinued. Perhaps it is because the best ones had the best ingredients and those ingredients have become too expensive. I don't know but just trying to get a good answer for one of the best iris perfumes ever to be among the first to be discontinued from the line.
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