tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post8531018869131458624..comments2024-03-29T05:13:21.130+00:00Comments on Perfume Shrine: Chypre series 3: the new contestantsPerfumeshrinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-87052801967892933822013-04-10T09:23:15.930+01:002013-04-10T09:23:15.930+01:00Anon,
thanks for coming on board!
But why are yo...Anon,<br /><br />thanks for coming on board!<br /><br />But why are you missing Aromatics Elixir? It's alive and well on the counters (It's a steady best-seller where I am, actually). The new versions are also very good, actually. <br />However if you want something that smells very close, try Apivita "Earth" for a very good approximation. It's sometimes sold on Amazon. I Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-75794084822860906522013-04-10T08:56:56.009+01:002013-04-10T08:56:56.009+01:00Oh how I lament the passing of chypre perfumes. I ...Oh how I lament the passing of chypre perfumes. I miss aromatics elixir so much it hurts. I just cannot find a modern replacement. Neither I or my husband can smell the reformulation. Any suggestions as to what to try instead?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-6235341057852000932007-10-07T16:31:00.000+01:002007-10-07T16:31:00.000+01:00It is confusing, isn't it? I think they use the te...It is confusing, isn't it? I think they use the term for lack of something novel.<BR/> The take on "pink chypres" is not credited to me, I'm afraid, like I mentioned in the article. It's a great term though!Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-8216578146302523152007-10-06T18:13:00.000+01:002007-10-06T18:13:00.000+01:00Thank you for explaining the broad and somewhat ar...Thank you for explaining the broad and somewhat arbitrary "chypre" classification. I used to be so confused to hear that both Mitsouko and modern scents like Miss Dior Cherie described as chypres. They're nothing alike! I agree with the previous commentors who say a new name should be assigned, although "pink chypres" is a clever take.IrisLAhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10784920758182679760noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-25932603077979103782007-10-04T21:36:00.000+01:002007-10-04T21:36:00.000+01:00Dear D,tsunami is a very apr word. In such frantic...Dear D,<BR/>tsunami is a very apr word. In such frantic paces one cannot predict classics of the future, simply because there is just too much diversification following that those that could become something of the kind get lost in the flood of flankers...<BR/>I have my doubts for 31 RC. It's elegant and well-made, but to trully become a classic something has to gain a certain popularity too (Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-49204622462649548012007-10-04T21:33:00.000+01:002007-10-04T21:33:00.000+01:00Dear M,aren't we all?It's too funny that the Oxfor...Dear M,<BR/>aren't we all?<BR/>It's too funny that the Oxford dictionary got it wrong. I wonder how they would react to your proposal though (thanks!)Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-52546447199916706292007-10-04T16:40:00.000+01:002007-10-04T16:40:00.000+01:00For Mim: I agree it's a shame that Colony was neve...For Mim: I agree it's a shame that Colony was never reissued. I have the 80s reedition and I am pining for the extrait, but whenever it shows up on the Bay it's just too insanely expensive.<BR/>However, Patou's Sublime is somewhat derived from the same idea. While I don't find it as playful as the pineapple-y Colony, it's another excellent example of fruity chypre.<BR/>As for the new family... carmencanadahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04242409369868615074noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-77803849555709291062007-10-04T16:07:00.000+01:002007-10-04T16:07:00.000+01:00I'm another sad chypre lover who just can't cotton...I'm another sad chypre lover who just can't cotton to the notion of a "modern" chypre--although you make a very good point that, overall, it's a blessing to see commercial perfumery moving away from the fruit and candy.<BR/><BR/>I just looked up "chypre" in my Oxford Concise dictionary, which gives the following definition: "A heavy perfume made from sandalwood." That's all. They do get the BitterGracehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18262639525430954930noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-12808896212576110302007-10-04T10:39:00.000+01:002007-10-04T10:39:00.000+01:00Dear Mim,you do have a point that one cannot love ...Dear Mim,<BR/><BR/>you do have a point that one cannot love anything in a designated family just because. <BR/>It happens to me too; I'm all over the spectrum and have favourites and antipathies in every fragrance family...I mostly judge on a one-to-one basis.<BR/>Maybe Ivoire is not to your taste because it is too soapy and rather floral in nature? Jolie Madame is very violet-y and powdery, Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-51525684798589486902007-10-04T09:51:00.000+01:002007-10-04T09:51:00.000+01:00I'd agree with Jean-Claude Ellena's comment. I've ...I'd agree with Jean-Claude Ellena's comment. I've found I like most of the pre-1935 fragrances I've been able to try (even if they've been tweaked a bit over the years) and have yet to encounter a Patou I dislike, yet while my favourites are chypres, I don't love all chypres. I had a particularly hard time with both Ivoire and Jolie Madame, which were too green for me.<BR/><BR/>Mitsouko is Queen Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-10755449407074972542007-10-04T08:02:00.000+01:002007-10-04T08:02:00.000+01:00Thank you C. I appreciate your compliment.Miss Dio...Thank you C. I appreciate your compliment.<BR/><BR/><I>Miss Dior Cherie</I> is probably the latest release I was most scared of. I literally shook when I tested it at the store! It made such an unfavourable impression.Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-16390814943197005392007-10-04T08:00:00.000+01:002007-10-04T08:00:00.000+01:00Divina,it is of course a shame that later generati...Divina,<BR/>it is of course a shame that later generations might be robbed of the chance to smell a true chypre, or even misguided in believing those new ones are what it was all about.<BR/><BR/>However I can't bring myself to lament their emergence, because surely they point to a very hopeful direction away from the plastic vanillas and the buble-gummy fruity florals of late and this is Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-68692338427487489272007-10-04T07:57:00.000+01:002007-10-04T07:57:00.000+01:00Maria,I think this is exactly what Jean Claude Ell...Maria,<BR/>I think this is exactly what Jean Claude Ellena alluded to: that classifications are rather trite and that we should judge something on its own merits. Maybe a different name would be preferable.<BR/><BR/>Mitsouko is my most intimate, personal perfume and as to Alpona...although Caron is usually difficult for me, this one is a breath of wet leaves trampled underfoot. Marvellous.Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-42743299577545534582007-10-04T07:54:00.000+01:002007-10-04T07:54:00.000+01:00Lucy, you are lucky indeed! I do love labdanum as ...Lucy, you are lucky indeed! <BR/>I do love labdanum as well and wonder why it isn't as much used lately. It's a charming, deep note.Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-49557449524226215552007-10-04T04:25:00.000+01:002007-10-04T04:25:00.000+01:00Miss Dior Cherie is a travesty, to say the least. ...Miss Dior Cherie is a travesty, to say the least. I do very much like Ava Luxe "Moss" and Le Labo's Labdanum 18, which, I feel, cleave to the old-school approach. Great posting, E. Looking forward to your aesthetics post.Vetivressehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13184229271272395673noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-72139438291549631382007-10-04T01:47:00.000+01:002007-10-04T01:47:00.000+01:00I have to agree with Maria... I do not feel happy ...I have to agree with Maria... I do not feel happy or upbeat at the prospect of a 'modern chypre'. I think it is a travesty to borrow that word. If we continue to accept this, later generations will have no clue whatsoever what chypre ever was.. Like a stolen identity. It creeps me out. If it was not so late at night I would further add how horrifying this would appear to the masses with any otherDivinahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14846908655432168778noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-34858160227730961052007-10-04T00:26:00.000+01:002007-10-04T00:26:00.000+01:00Oakmoss and labdanum are among my favorite perfume...Oakmoss and labdanum are among my favorite perfume notes. I'm dismayed by their disappearance. I cherish the old chypres and don't recognize new ones as belonging to the same family. Why not create a new category for them that doesn't borrow the fine chypre name? They could use woodsy-green or fruity-woodsy or some such descriptive name. I finally got around to trying on 31 Rue Cambon Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-40504896171629686742007-10-03T22:15:00.000+01:002007-10-03T22:15:00.000+01:00I am so happy that I have some absolute of oakmoss...I am so happy that I have some absolute of oakmoss of my own, I can do what I like with it! (I have worn it diluted heavily on its own).<BR/>The same with labdanum. Ironically, I know, as I am sure we all do, some individuals who claim to dislike perfume, but when exposed to labdanum they are charmed...indieperfumeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16933060392329498890noreply@blogger.com