tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post2611265158506470876..comments2024-03-29T05:13:21.130+00:00Comments on Perfume Shrine: Perfumery Material: Coumarin, Tonka Bean & the Fougere accordPerfumeshrinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-13457672717148359742016-03-31T23:07:03.326+01:002016-03-31T23:07:03.326+01:00I am a newly budding perfume enthusiast (fumehead....I am a newly budding perfume enthusiast (fumehead. Love it.)<br />Tonka bean, coumarin, coumarex, hay absolute... They are among my favorite scents. I've always gotten more of a vanilla bean/warm caramel type feeling from coumarin. Now I'll be looking at it with a "fresh nose" trying to find the grassy side.<br />Love this site!<br />John PalAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13422315768728584524noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-63442624547730970282015-11-13T08:00:17.606+00:002015-11-13T08:00:17.606+00:00Thanks :-)
Helichrysum would be toastier I believe...Thanks :-)<br />Helichrysum would be toastier I believe than the more almondy coumarin. It's a quite dense note and would need extra mastery at handling it. <br />I suggest you consult either Mandy Aftel's Essence and Alchemy book or Karen Gilbert's Perfume for recipes on how to go on making your own perfumes; they offer insightful notes and practical tips with ratios etc. <br />Hope Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-32523271063429963622015-11-12T22:54:20.969+00:002015-11-12T22:54:20.969+00:00Great post. Thanks for the history. Would helichry...Great post. Thanks for the history. Would helichrysum itallicum be aromatically similar to coumarin? I want to re create a basic fougre. What ratio of lavender oak moss and coumarin equivalent would you suggest?Pujahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05843783623669081527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-42284707444110711252014-12-22T07:23:22.368+00:002014-12-22T07:23:22.368+00:00Goblinboy,
fresh is always a good thing in perfum...Goblinboy,<br /><br />fresh is always a good thing in perfume, it's just that the "freshness" perceived changes with the vogues/times. Fougere is that inedible freshness that we associate with grooming (shaving cream & retro barbershop). I personally love that association! (being a woman). <br />Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-32439991436421912832014-12-21T01:27:12.024+00:002014-12-21T01:27:12.024+00:00Yes, as a matter of fact I walked down that fern-s...Yes, as a matter of fact I walked down that fern-scented pathway today. <br /> I had always heard of the fougere combo of coumarin and lavender and to my mind coumarin/tonka is very sweet, so I found it sort of confusing as why that would be the basis of so many men's scents. Well I was fooling around a bit with my essences and I mixed lavender, tonka, and oakmoss, (and a bit of bergamot Goblinboyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00298103542559188336noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-24157868387359987452014-12-19T18:24:28.787+00:002014-12-19T18:24:28.787+00:00Goblinboy,
that's amazing about the coumarin ...Goblinboy,<br /><br />that's amazing about the coumarin smelling fern! (Lau'e fern you say, noting it down!). <br /><br />You're correct. Coumarin smells more like almonds and hay (it's very almondy to me, personally) isolated from tonka beans (tonka beans do have a very confectionary note). I believe it's the fougere that has the inedible quality. Thanks to the total of the Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-31844871660024124762014-12-17T17:58:47.869+00:002014-12-17T17:58:47.869+00:00There IS a fern that smells like coumarin! In Haw...There IS a fern that smells like coumarin! In Hawaii it's known as the Lau'e fern, I believe elsew'ere it's known as 'Hare's Foot Fern" or 'Wart Fern', it's a creeping, sometimes vining fern with really thick, coarse leaves(not feathery like most ferns). I've heard the scent described as 'vanilla spice cookies', or 'vanilla tobacco'. Goblinboyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00298103542559188336noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-44566815366622102232012-11-23T09:35:30.098+00:002012-11-23T09:35:30.098+00:00Thomas,
that's fascinating info!! Thank you...Thomas, <br /><br />that's fascinating info!! Thank you. And also thanks for the nice words on these raw materials articles. :-)Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-1053282527117829942012-11-23T09:30:18.782+00:002012-11-23T09:30:18.782+00:00Thanks Undina!Thanks Undina!Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-73004977302987532332012-11-23T05:35:30.160+00:002012-11-23T05:35:30.160+00:00Very interesting set of articles on perfume ingred...Very interesting set of articles on perfume ingredients.<br /><br />One note: coumarin is not an anticoagulant. It's turned into an anticoagulant, dicoumarol, by fungi, and that process, in clover, has poisoned cattle. The bans for use in food are due to concerns over liver toxicity, not anticoagulation.<br /><br />The best-known related rat poison is warfarin, trade name <i>Coumadin</i>, thomasnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-21919057159607779592011-02-27T19:12:06.992+00:002011-02-27T19:12:06.992+00:00Thank you for a very interesting and informative a...Thank you for a very interesting and informative article. I enjoyed reading it an will probably read again after smelling perfumes mentioned in it (well, not all but those that I have in my collection).Undinahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05292100499371921334noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-84550416101642442011-02-25T14:20:28.773+00:002011-02-25T14:20:28.773+00:00Cacio,
I'm very pleased that there's sere...Cacio,<br /><br />I'm very pleased that there's serendipity in the way of things: Indeed coumarin has a fascinating history. Apart from anticoagulant (which is good), there is also the matter of toxicity (which is less good) and the inclusion in cigarettes which was outright revealed in a famous case immortalised by the film <i>"The Insider"</i> (If you have watched it, you mustPerfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-24543501313306433882011-02-24T23:28:41.363+00:002011-02-24T23:28:41.363+00:00Thanks as usual for your very informative posts. ...Thanks as usual for your very informative posts. And serendipity again - this is the week! <br /><br />Just yesterday night, after reading your article, I happened to read a divulgative science book which at one point described the history of how one went from coumarin to rat poison to anticoagulant drugs (cows and attempted suicides were involved in the process). Fascinating material indeed.<brcaciohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17902017914305322799noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-1276481572359253772011-02-24T14:12:56.332+00:002011-02-24T14:12:56.332+00:00Taffun,
thank you, it's very gratifying to he...Taffun,<br /><br />thank you, it's very gratifying to hear so.Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-14292553912225854202011-02-24T14:12:35.615+00:002011-02-24T14:12:35.615+00:00Giovanni,
you know well then how it is! Good!
I b...Giovanni,<br /><br />you know well then how it is! Good!<br />I believe the compositions you state put the coumarin in a context that brings out the full spectrum of the bean: the caramel nuances, the woodiness, the spiciness and the nuances of nuts...A material isolated can never reveal what it can do in a context of other ingredients: this is evident even if you just mix essential oils; the Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-37603355134280056512011-02-24T03:28:16.279+00:002011-02-24T03:28:16.279+00:00Your information is very informative it helps me a...Your information is very informative it helps me a lot, thankstaffynfontanahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10851890271050689037noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-67378044898239002062011-02-23T20:50:24.282+00:002011-02-23T20:50:24.282+00:00I had the possibility to smell the coumarine on an...I had the possibility to smell the coumarine on an olfactory course and I think it's a piece of story of perfumery, but how many of the smell of tonka bean is in the coumarine?<br />I ask this because in niche I see a new tonka bean's trend, I think to Tonka Imperiale by Guerlain and the last limited edition of Guillaume, Tonkamande.It's a revival of coumarine or it's the real Giovanni-Fragrancescouthttp://www.fragrancescout.itnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-50561578587210410162011-02-23T20:14:09.613+00:002011-02-23T20:14:09.613+00:00Lang,
you're welcome. I know lots of people l...Lang,<br /><br />you're welcome. I know lots of people love the smell of mown hay/grass (I do as well), hence the popularity of the material.<br />Enjoy the discovery!Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-16156487682244243452011-02-23T19:30:22.422+00:002011-02-23T19:30:22.422+00:00Thanks so much. I've sniffed many galbanum sc...Thanks so much. I've sniffed many galbanum scents, I don't really care for it (I'm being polite here). But I love the scent of cut grass. So I just coumarin is the note for me. Sprayed on some Elixer since you mentioned it...:)langhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02926842948561494587noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-45447530914530382822011-02-23T17:52:24.909+00:002011-02-23T17:52:24.909+00:00Great!! A question! I know it's confusing when...Great!! A question! I know it's confusing when people talk in that standard talk of how everything is supposed to smell, "aldehydes are sparkling", "cumin is sweaty", "tuberose smells creamy and rubbery" blah blah blah. This is mainly why I started dissecting each material, tired of reading & hearing "formulaic" answers, because obviously things arePerfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-80365979766117463622011-02-23T16:59:21.370+00:002011-02-23T16:59:21.370+00:00I love your "education series"! I'v...I love your "education series"! I've been a fumehead for about a year and am just learning. As such, I've often wondered what this coumarin actually smelled like. Now I wonder, how is it different than galbanum, which I find to be green bitter and have seen others call is "cut grass."?langhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02926842948561494587noreply@blogger.com