tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post6151734420974601054..comments2024-03-27T09:09:56.489+00:00Comments on Perfume Shrine: The Dior Chypres series ~1.the hidden force: Edmond RoudnitskaPerfumeshrinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-40645431856751361152007-11-06T17:03:00.000+00:002007-11-06T17:03:00.000+00:00Undoubtedly there has to be some truth in emancipa...Undoubtedly there has to be some truth in emancipation expressed through smoking (hence Tabac Blond). <BR/>Leather might be more attuned to luxury cars (the upholstery), gent's clubs (the Chesterfield couches) or expensive leather goods (we all know about those and women!), as it wasn't used as an item in women's clothing so much as today.<BR/><BR/>It's interesting to examine. Till later...Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-65589138426069668342007-11-06T15:04:00.000+00:002007-11-06T15:04:00.000+00:00I'd be interested in finding historical sources on...I'd be interested in finding historical sources on that point: which notes were considered masculine and feminine in the heyday of classical French perfumery. I do believe that notes of tobacco and leather must have been meant to express feminine emancipation -- they were prominent in "garçonne" era scents such as the great Carons, En Avion and Tabac Blond. So they must've had masculine carmencanadahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04242409369868615074noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-29610319217467050682007-11-06T10:52:00.000+00:002007-11-06T10:52:00.000+00:00Thank you D, I appreciate your compliment.This is ...Thank you D, I appreciate your compliment.<BR/><BR/>This is an interesting point you bring on! <BR/>I think that a certain "masculinity" in vintage fragrance was not intended as such. I believe what today is perceived as slightly more masculine in fragrant terms(animalics,leather, tobacco notes etc.) was considered to be a slight "dirtier" underlay that was not antithetical to the natural womanlyPerfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-35305375452494673752007-11-06T10:42:00.000+00:002007-11-06T10:42:00.000+00:00Dear C, it's very true that his oeuvre is fundamen...Dear C, <BR/>it's very true that his oeuvre is fundamental to the understanding of modern perfumery. And look how he influenced so many!Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-84748663057851630712007-11-05T22:06:00.000+00:002007-11-05T22:06:00.000+00:00Great post. I didn't know Roudnitska have disavowe...Great post. I didn't know Roudnitska have disavowed Femme as a chypre -- it's so far off from the Coty as to be in a class by itself, though to me, in many ways, Eau d'Hermès is its masculine counterpart.<BR/>I've given some thought to the relationship between fashion houses and their scents, especially the first ones. While there is a remarkable coherence between Chanel perfumes and fashions (incarmencanadahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04242409369868615074noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-26890463530143234832007-11-05T21:35:00.000+00:002007-11-05T21:35:00.000+00:00Hats off to you and another magisterial post! Neop...Hats off to you and another magisterial post! Neophytes and sage perfumeophiles alike need to know this man. To understand him is to understand the better part of postwar perfumery.Vetivressehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13184229271272395673noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-86276843011304435672007-11-05T21:31:00.000+00:002007-11-05T21:31:00.000+00:00Thanks so much for such enthusiastic reception fre...Thanks so much for such enthusiastic reception freegracer. Hope I won't disappoint.Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-65328246231748377002007-11-05T21:20:00.000+00:002007-11-05T21:20:00.000+00:00Fabulous article, Helg. Thank you for all the wo...Fabulous article, Helg. Thank you for all the work you put into your blog. Looking forward to more articles about the great Diors.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-71079893454759369232007-11-05T17:54:00.000+00:002007-11-05T17:54:00.000+00:00Thank you Angela for the lovely compliment and enj...Thank you Angela for the lovely compliment and enjoy Miss Dior. I will devote an entry on it shortly.<BR/>:-)Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-49304096624248319452007-11-05T16:47:00.000+00:002007-11-05T16:47:00.000+00:00Wonderful post about my favorite perfumer and one ...Wonderful post about my favorite perfumer and one of my favorite houses. Thank you so much! I'll wear a generous spritz of Miss Dior today in its honor.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-33844920993906215522007-11-05T09:39:00.000+00:002007-11-05T09:39:00.000+00:00Thank you Gaia. Those old Diors were really someth...Thank you Gaia. <BR/><BR/>Those old Diors were really something, weren't they? To varying degrees they mirror the evolution of an aesthetic standpoint. <BR/><BR/>I have already fallen head over heels with one....Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3792393342962796253.post-29663248302700906362007-11-05T00:37:00.000+00:002007-11-05T00:37:00.000+00:00Helg, thanks so much for this well-researched over...Helg, thanks so much for this well-researched overview. I've been working my way through some of the old Diors, trying to make them "my own" and not just a memory. I'm looking foreward to the rest of the series.Gaiahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11561470171631737626noreply@blogger.com